sport bike Busa Drop - Do-It-Yourself Lowering tech tip how to

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Busa Drop - Do-It-Yourself Lowering

author // Mark Walburn
photographer // Joe Woods

Lowering a Hayabusa is a common bike modification. However, taking your bike to the shop to get everything installed can be expensive. While a bike lift and air tools make this job easier, almost any 'Busa owner can manage this install in one afternoon with a basic set of metric hand tools and a floor jack. For this install we are dealing specifically with a ‘Busa, but these same principles and instructions apply to almost any sportbike.

Before we go any further, there are a few very important safety issues to discuss. A sportbike is designed at the factory to go very fast on paved surfaces. The manufacturers spend millions getting the suspension height and linkage ratios just right, so before you start changing things you need to consider the final result.

Lowering a bike can cause dramatic handling changes that vary from bike to bike. The rear suspension will usually get much harsher, and the front fender may hit the fairing, so you must take it a bit easier on the bumps. There are ways of lowering a bike and avoid these problems, but they are more expensive and require a good shop with custom experience.

For this simple drop we used adjustable rear lowering links, which allow the rear end to be set to three different positions. In the front we went with a lowering top clamp, which, unlike the solid stock clamp, allows the forks to be pulled up in the triple clamps.
Since the bike will be sitting lower the side stand will have to be shorter to keep things stable while parked. An adjustable unit allows fine-tuning of the bikes height — and length in case you want to add a stretched swingarm in the future.

The actual install is pretty easy once you know the tricks. Follow along with our step-by-step instructions for the easy path to

customized ’Busa glory. Since we are working on the ground, the side stand is the best place to start. Get someone to help hold the bike while you do this. It’s a good idea to recruit them for the afternoon because you will need them again later.

STEP 1 Have your friend hold the bike while you pry the stock springs off the side stand. The spring is under the least amount of tension when it is in the up position. Be very careful not to send it flying into your face.	STEP 2 Remove the 14mm nut on the top of the stand first, and then remove the pivot bolt with a 17mm wrench or socket.
STEP 3 Since the bike is still at stock height, adjust the new stand to the same length as the old one. Carefully remove the split ring holding in the adjustment pin. Replace it with a piece of safety wire, or a paper clip, to make the adjustment easier. We will reinstall the split ring once the lowering is complete.	STEP 4 Lubricate the pivot bolt with a little white lithium grease before installing the new stand.
STEP 5 Slide the new stand into position and thread the bolt through the mount tab. Make sure the bolt’s collar is fitting properly into the stand before you begin tightening. Tighten the bolt first, then reinstall and tighten the nut.	STEP 6 Getting the spring on without scratching the stand is a little tough. Be careful not to slip and cut yourself on the sharp spring ends. A pair of work gloves, (which we’re not wearing), are a good idea for this step.
STEP 7 With the new stand installed, we can start on lowering the front. Remove the 8mm master cylinder bolts from both the clutch and brake, and gently rest both on the fairing to access the handle bar bolts.	STEP 8 The outside bolts pass through notches in the handle bar tubes to prevent them from falling out if left loose, so you will have to remove the bolts entirely to get the bars out. Leave the bars loose in the clamps for now.
STEP 9 The top clamp is held on with four Allen bolts with nuts and washers under the clamp. Pry off the Allen bolt covers and remove the bolts with an Allen wrench on top and a 14mm wrench on the bottom.	STEP 10 With the bolts removed, lift the clamp off as you slide out the handle bar tubes. Be sure to remove and save the plastic bushings that go around each fork, you will need them if you ever want to return the bike to stock.
STEP 11 Slide the bars into the new clamp before setting it in position with the stock bolts. Some white lithium grease on the bars and clamp makes this easier.	STEP 12 The outside bolt will only fit into the clamp with the bars in the right position so if it’s not going in, don’t force it. Get the bars rotated into correct position before tightening the bolts.
STEP 13 ighten the top bolts of the master cylinders before the bottom bolts. With the bars, clutch and brake installed, tighten the top clamp evenly in a cross pattern.	STEP 14 Since the front adjustment is dependent on the rear, we will do the linkage before finishing the front. Here is the stock linkage with the lower rear cowl removed. We will use the fairing bracket to raise and lower the bike while we install the new linkage.
STEP 15 Hold the bolt head with a 14mm wrench while loosening the 19mm nut with a breaker bar. If you can’t get enough muscle to break it free, try a pry bar between the tire and the breaker bar to multiply your strength. This is a risky option so be careful.	STEP 16 With the linkage bolts loose, support the bike with a floor jack and pull the out bolts and links. To get the top bolt out, push the steel collar into the frame away from the link, this will give you enough clearance to remove the bolt without pulling the exhaust.
STEP 17 The longer the link, the lower the bike. We used the last hole to get the maximum drop. Use the jack to lower the bike and align the holes for the stock bolts and nuts. Be sure the bolts and nuts are on the same side they were originally.	STEP 18 Here is how it looks with the bolts tight and the bike off the jack.
STEP 19 Up at the top clamp, measure the stock position of the forks for reference and write it down somewhere safe, inside the front cover of the owner’s manual is a good place.	STEP 20 These lower clamp bolts will need to be loosened first. Depending on your tools, you might find it easier to do this from the top or bottom but it can usually be done without removing the fairing.
STEP 21 With the bottom bolts loose, use the top bolt to carefully allow the fork to slide up in the clamp, we dropped our front about two inches.	STEP 22 Here is the finished top clamp after all the top and bottom clamp bolts have been retightened. Be sure to adjust the side stand for the bike’s new, lower stance, and reinstall the split ring into the adjusting pin.

2WT recommmends proper training before working on your motorcycle. Procedures may vary for each bike. This article is considered a basic guide, use it at your own risk.